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In the wake of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Ike, damaged trees needed to be carefully evaluated, considering if affected trees are worth salvaging, and then folks also need to consider their ability to do any needed repairs.
After Ike, some trees had minor damage, losing a only few branches. Lots of pines were snapped in half after a strong gust of wind. Many oaks, and some sweetgum trees were completely uprooted, often causing collateral damage on their way down. Some trees may only be leaning, but these are potential hazards during future storms.
Extensive damage to inferior, short-lived trees usually calls for tree removal rather than trying to spend time and money on repair. If the whole top is broken out of a mature tree, regardless of species, it is a candidate for removal rather than repair.
Keep in mind that tree wounds do not "heal" like skin injuries in mammals. Rather, wounds are closed over as the tree produces wound callus. Very large wounds usually do not close quickly, leaving them vulnerable for decay.
Nobody likes the thought of having to replace a mature tree, but sometimes that may be the best course of action for a badly damaged tree. Dealing with damaged trees early reduces the possibility of problems later on.
Younger and smaller trees will recover from injuries more rapidly than old, mature trees, making them worth your while to properly prune damaged branches.
While minor repairs to small limbs and branches lower on the tree can be done by the homeowner, for large limbs high in the tree, it’s time to call in the professionals. Do not attempt to remove limbs while standing on a ladder.
Broken limbs left dangling high in the air are very dangerous and difficult to safely remove.
Pruning Branches. Broken branches should be removed back to the closest fork or to the trunk. Never leave stubs which invite rot and decay to travel down the branch and into the trunk. Topping branches (indiscriminately placed cuts, not at a fork) produces a proliferation of weakly attached branches that are more susceptible to future wind and ice damage. Never top a tree!
Large limbs should be removed using 3 steps to avoid stripping off bark down the trunk as the weight of the limb pulls down while cutting. To prevent stripping bark, make the first cut on the underside of the branch, about 18 inches out from the trunk, up into the branch about 1/3 of the way. Stop before the branch binds the saw blade.
The second cut is made a couple of inches away from the first cut, out toward the end of the branch. This cut removes the branch, which will break off at the point of the first cut. Be very careful when removing large or heavy limbs as their movement and fall can be very unpredictable. The final cut removes the remaining stub at the swollen branch collar.
If a storm causes a falling branch to rip bark down the trunk, try to repair the damage by removing loose bark and wood. Using a very sharp knife, clean or trace the edges to promote faster production of wound callus. The top and bottom of the wound should be pointed, like a football shape.
For more good information on dealing with trees after a storm, visit these web sites:
http://treesandhurricanes.ifas.ufl.edu/ - a University of Florida Extension web site
http://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/treesandstormdamage.html - a set of links for Texas Forest Service and Extension tree publications
Chainsaw Safety
Chainsaws are among the most dangerous tools homeowners use and every year there are many accidents involving chainsaws. As a matter of fact, approximately 23,000 persons annually require emergency room treatment for chainsaw injuries.
Since chainsaws are used so infrequently, read the owner's manual and be familiar with all aspects of safe operation and maintenance before using the saw. Most accidents involve the operator coming into direct contact with the blade. This can happen when you reach across or hold limbs near the moving blade, or by losing control of the saw when losing your balance or footing. Also, accidents can happen by turning suddenly while sawing, shifting the chainsaw while cutting at or above waist level, or by experiencing chainsaw kickback.
Other hazards include falling trees and limbs, particles in the eyes, contacting a hot part of the saw, and fire.
Wear warm, comfortable, trim-fitting clothing that allows easy movement. Loose clothing can get caught in the moving chain. Also, wear nonslip gloves, heavy work boots which won't slip, protective goggles over your eyes and ear protection.
Always use both hands when starting a chain saw, one to hold the saw and the other to pull the starter rope. Some chain saws can also be held down with a foot while starting. Check the owner's manual for additional starting information. Grip the top handle of the saw firmly and pull the starter rope quickly. It is not a safe practice to start a chain saw while holding it in mid-air with one hand. Always start it on the ground on a stable surface.
If you are cutting small logs, support them off of the ground so the chain will not hit the ground and to prevent binding of the wood. Let the chain do the cutting. Extra pressure does not need to be applied and can lead to accidents. Do not try to cut wood with a diameter greater than the length of the chainsaw bar guide. Felling trees of larger diameter than the guide requires special techniques and really should be left up to professionals.
Do not operate a chain saw up in a tree or from a ladder unless you have been specifically trained and are equipped to do so. There is a great risk that you can lose your balance because of cutting forces on the saw or unpredictable movement of the limbs being cut.
Do not cut near chain link fences, wire fences, or in areas where there is loose or scrap wire. Use extreme caution with cutting small-size brush and saplings because slender material may catch the cutting chain and be whipped toward you or pull you off balance.
Operating a chainsaw over a long period of time can be tiring. Fatigue is responsible for many accidents, so take frequent breaks. Gloves will help reduce hand and wrist injury from the constant vibration. Certainly you should never operate a chain saw if you have been drinking alcoholic beverages, or if you have been taking prescription medication or non-prescription drugs.
You should always maintain proper chain tension. Keep in mind that the chain is turning about 50 miles per hour, and if it comes loose, it can do major damage.
Always keep the teeth sharp. It would be a good idea to have a backup chain if you are going to be cutting for a long time. A properly sharpened saw will produce wood chips, not sawdust or powder. The chain will need sharpening if it cuts a wide groove, walks sideways while cutting or produces fine sawdust. Smoke or a burnt smell, and having to exert more pressure are also signs the blade needs sharpening.
Keep the chain frequently oiled during operation, and watch out for kickback which is responsible for nearly 1/3 or all chainsaw accidents. To avoid kickback: keep a firm, two-hand grip on the saw; grip the top handle with the thumb under and around it; never stand directly in back of the cut - rather, stand to the side; saw only with the bottom part of the chain, close to the bumper; never cut with nose of the chain; watch for obstructions like limbs or twigs on the other side of the cut; do not allow the bar to be pinched in a cut or twist the bar while cutting; saw only at waist level and below and never above the chest; and use a saw with a chain brake, nose guard, anti-kickback chain and other anti-kickback features.