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PROPAGATING OLD GARDEN ROSES BY CUTTINGS

Of all flowers, the rose is considered the most loved. Our ancestors felt the same, because they took their roses with them when they moved and shared them with family and friends. We now call these roses "Old Garden Roses" or "Antique Roses." And, as your ancestors would tell you, these roses are as easy as one, two, three to propagate.

You will need a six inch plastic pot, a potting mixture of half perlite or vermiculite and half potting soil, a sharp knife or clippers, rooting hormone, an 18 inch length of wire, and a plastic bag. Then, follow these simple guidelines:

Take the cutting, making a forty-five degree cut just below a leaf node on a stem where the flower has finished blooming. The cutting needs to be six to eight inches long. It is important to keep the stem moist by placing it in water or wrap it in a wet paper towel.

Next, remove the lower leaves, leaving at least two on the top. Using the eraser end of a pencil, make holes in the rooting medium. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and gently tap to remove any excess.

Place the prepared cutting in the hole, firming the soil around the stem. Water with a fine spray, and label each pot with the variety, name and date. Cover the pot with a plastic bag, which is supported above the foliage with a bent wire. Make sure the pot does not dry out.

Set the pot in a warm and bright, but shaded location. When the cutting has grown roots, it will send out new leaves, usually in five to eight weeks. To ready the rooted cutting to be transplanted into a larger pot, put several slits in the top of the plastic bag, exposing it to drier air for a few days. Pot the newly rooted rose and place it in filtered sun for the rest of the growing season.

Sue Adee, Smith County Master Gardener
Texas AgriLife Extension Service


PROPAGATING ROSES BY LAYERING

Though spring and early fall are the best times for propagating by layering, it can be done at almost any time of year. It may take longer to get a viable new plant during late fall and winter (from two to four months), but this method is nearly always successful. However, avoid bending canes when prolonged cold makes them brittle

Choose a flexible cane and pull it to the ground, bending the last six to eight inches into an "elbow." Use a sharp knife to nick the cane at the bottom of the elbow. This will promote faster root formation. Then, bury the elbow approximately six inches deep at the base of the plant. A rock or brick will keep the cane from springing up when disturbed by the wind.

After six to eight weeks, check for new roots by gently tugging on the cane. If it pulls out and no roots have formed, simply replant it and wait a few more weeks. New growth is a sure sign of good root formation. When you are ready to transplant, cut through the end connecting to the parent plant and move it to the new location.

Geneva Thomas, Smith County Master Gardener
Texas AgriLife Extension Service


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